Wildcat contract renewed
Longtime chef returns to iconic restaurant for another two years; Great Slave Lake pickerel doesn't
Jessica Davey-Quantick
Northern News Services
Friday, March 31, 2017
SOMBA K'E/YELLOWKNIFE
Graham Shishkov of Thornton's on 51st and his business partners are back for another two-year contract running the Wildcat Cafe.
Restaurateurs Sato Chankasingh, left, and Graham Shishkov head back to the Wildcat Cafe in May. Graham Troyer, right, is a partner in their downtown restaurant, Thornton's on 51st. - NNSL file photo |
"We're ready to start planning. Every day as the weather is getting better it's feeling more and more like that time," said Shishkov.
Along with chefs Graham Troyer and Sato Chankasingh, Shishkov opened Thornton's on 51st in October.
Shishkov said the city-owned historical diner will be open for business after the May long weekend, with Chankasingh back in the kitchen. Chankasingh has operated several restaurants in Yellowknife over the years, including the Office Dining Lounge, Our Place and Twist.
Shishkov beat out two other bidders for the contract: Robin Wasicuna of Twin Pine Diner and Jeromy Ball. The bids were graded on a points system, with the winning bid taking home 935 points, beating out Wasicuna's 872 and Ball's 840.
The Wildcat first opened in 1937 and, celebrating its 80th birthday this year, is the oldest restaurant in Yellowknife.
"The Wildcat is a living heritage facility within the city. There's not too many that are currently operating as their original design, so that's a huge boon to the community," said Grant White, director of community services with the City of Yellowknife.
The terms of reference specifies that the new operator serves "a variety of simple, affordable tasty food - especially Northern foods" but beyond that, operators are free to get creative. In fact, White said that's one of the reasons the operation works on a revolving two-year door.
"It gives a chance for if there's any new ideas," said White.
Shishkov said while the details are still being worked out, the menu will change from what they served up last time around.
"We'll be keeping some staples that the Wildcat's known for, and coming up with new items," he said, adding because of limited space in the Wildcat kitchen, the menu will be small.
The bison burger will still be on offer, as well as other child-friendly items. The main focus will be on celebrating Canada's 150th and the Wildcat's 80th birthday in style.
"That's pretty lucky and significant to have two big birthdays at a national heritage site," he said.
But one thing that won't be making an appearance on the plate is Great Slave Lake pickerel.
Last summer, the Wildcat Cafe faced controversy after media reported it was serving frozen fish fillets imported from Kazakhstan as locally caught fish.
Shishkov said "nothing is set in stone" but for now, pickerel is off the menu.
"That situation was hell to deal with," he said, of what he refers to as the great pickerel debate of 2016. "It kind of felt like an attack, constantly under attack, and it's not a good way to feel, especially in a small town."
Shishkov called Chankasingh a "great chef" who has been working in Yellowknife for 30 years, so thinking about the issue makes him emotional.
"To kind of get thrown under the bus like that, you know, it wasn't fair," he said.
He's not worried people will be deterred from trying the cafe when it opens, however. He sees getting the contract as a vindication.
White couldn't comment on the details of how the bid was awarded but stressed it was a "fair and transparent process," graded on merit, with the contract being awarded to the bid with the highest score.
"Doesn't that say anything to you right there? They want the best job done, they want what's best for the Wildcat as an institution, as do we," said Shishkov.
"We kind of take pride in what we do, and we do do a good job."
