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Refining the fluff
Qiviut highlighted during trade show art market in Rankin Inlet

Darrell Greer
Northern News Services
Published Wednesday, October 8, 2014

RANKIN INLET
There was an added workshop attraction to the always wonderful array of items on display at the Kivalliq Trade Show's Art Market in Rankin Inlet this past week.

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Instructor Elizabeth Kolb of the Yukon denonstrates weaving trim during the Kivalliq Regional Trade Show's Art Market in Rankin Inlet this past week. - Darrell Greer/NNSL photo

Elizabeth Kolb of Dawson City, Yukon, was brought in as a special instructor to help with the recent focus on muskox fibre (qiviut).

Participants got the hang of spinning qiviut on a beautiful traditional treadle wheel, and also learned to weave trim for various items.

Kolb, 31, said the style of weaving bands, or trim, taught at the workshop originates from Scandinavia. The art was passed down in her family from her grandmother, who hails from northern Norway above the Arctic Circle.

"They use the bands to tie onto their boots, as well as belts and trim for clothing," said Kolb.

"This is something the people of Inuvik of the NWT are interested in, partly because of the small Lapps (Sami) migration in that area.

"It's a way of having handmade trim and choosing your own colours, stripes, patterns and shapes.

"It can be adapted to patterns people want here, because we can weave syllabics and some of the traditional patterns using this technique."

Kolb said using the weaving technique to enhance traditional patterns can increase the monetary value of a parka, for example, as well as the personal value placed on an item by the artist.

She said a pearl cotton is often the material of choice to make the trim.

"Pearl cotton is shrunk to make it shiny and it's a fairly forgiving material.

"The bands can be done in any material, though, and you do see wool or silk being used."

Kolb met Nunavut Development Corp. (NDC) business advisor Goretti Kakuktinniq of Rankin Inlet at the Great Northern Arts Festival in Inuvik.

Kakuktinniq is helping to arrange Kolb's return to Rankin sometime between January and March of 2015 to hold a workshop focused on the spinning of muskox down.

The possible benefit of the workshop is obvious, with qiviut being eight times as warm as sheep's wool and so soft it's known as the cashmere of the Arctic.

There were about 100,000 muskox on Nunavut's land mass this past year and their range is growing, bringing them closer to Rankin Inlet.

Kolb said her ventures to Rankin are being sponsored by NDC and the Nunavut Arts and Crafts Association.

She said she's been doing textiles for most of her life, with it being her full-time pursuit the past five years.

"We're hoping to have a two-week course with three teachers when I return, including an elder from Sachs Harbour, which will be more intensive and focus mainly on spinning qiviut.

"Being softer than cashmere, qiviut is regarded as a luxury material.

"We'll bring electric wheels with us next time because, with people here being so used to sewing machines, they'll feel comfortable to everyone.

"They're easy on the hands as you turn the fluff into a strong, twisted thread, or yarn, and they're well-suited to soft, delicate fabric."

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