IQALUIT
It may be the middle of summer, but no governmental visit to the North would be complete without showcasing a central part of Nunavut’s traditional economy.

Rannva Simonsen’s designs were on display as Manitoba Deputy Premier Eric Robinson, Northwest Territories Premier Bob McLeod, Nunavut Premier Peter Taptuna, Alberta Premier Dave Hancock, and Yukon Premier Darrell Pasloski donned sealskin vests and jackets during the annual Western Premiers’ Conference in Iqaluit earlier this month. The premiers did not get to keep their Rannva designs. - photo courtesy Government of Nunavut

When Canada’s western premiers met in Iqaluit two weeks ago for the 2014 annual Western Premiers’ Conference they were treated to an evening fashion show with designs from Iqaluit’s Rannva Design.

“A month or two ago, EIA (Government of Nunavut Executive and Intergovernmental Affairs) asked me if I would have a little showing at their event,” said Rannva Simonsen, owner of Rannva Design.

Simonsen put together a collection of about twenty pieces. After the show guests were able to handle the fur clothing, try it on, and get a feel for wearing fur.

She said participants were very interested and supportive of Nunavut’s fur industry. Yukon Premier Darrell Pasloski arrived wearing his own seal skin vest, a gift from former Nunavut premier Eva Aariak.

“It was encouraging to see that all these premiers were happy,” said Simonsen. “They had no problems whatsoever with the seal skin. They were all very supportive.”

Pasloski’s personal support of Northern traditional industry and sealing also represents the Yukon government’s official stance. Last year, the Yukon legislative assembly unanimously passed a motion in support of Canada’s appeal of the 2009 EU ban.

Despite that ongoing EU ban on sealskin products, which shows no sign of being resolved in the near term, Simonsen said demand remains high for Nunavut-sourced seal skin products.

“Locally and in Canada, the demand is ongoing and growing,” said Simonsen.

Simonsen said demand is particularly strong, even internationally, for Nunavut Ring seal.

Although Harp seals are hunted in Nunavut, Simonsen described Ring seal as more readily identifiable as part of the North’s traditional industry.

“If it’s Ring seal from Canada, it is from the North,” said Simonsen.

This gives Ring sealskin products an edge in a market-place given a black eye when the EU initially banned all fur products, thanks to animal rights lobbying.

“I have wholesale customers abroad who are interested in buying sealskin products from here (because they are) hunted in a sustainable way,” said Simonsen.

“Especially in Europe because people are very aware of animal welfare.”

According to statistics found on a government of Nunavut website, more than 40,000 seals are harvested in Nunavut every year. The value of that harvest is pegged at about $5 million worth of meat that would otherwise have to be bought in a grocery store.

Of those 40,000 seals, not many skins make it into the sealskin market.

“As the animals are mainly being hunted for food, a certain percentage are harvested at times of the year when the pelt has no value, (for example) during the spring molt, and are discarded,” said Devin Imrie, sealing and fur advisor for the Government of Nunavut.

“But the majority are traditionally cleaned and dried and used domestically for clothing, footwear, arts and crafts.”

Last year, according to statistics from Imrie, approximately 3,200 sealskins came into the government’s fur program.

Slightly more than 2,000 of those pelts were garment-quality and entered the dressed sealskin program, becoming available to couturiers like Simonsen. The rest would have been sold at auction outside the territory.

This is down slightly from the rolling average since 2009 of 3,400 skins per year.

Prior to the EU ban, the Nunavut sealskin program took in upward of 8,000 pelts per year. The decline in production does not stem from pelt pricing, as the government of Nunavut kept purchase prices stable after the ban came into effect.

Changes to the fur program

In an effort to increase pelt numbers, Imrie said this summer the government’s fur program will take in Harp seal pelts for the first time. But it is too soon to tell what effect this will have on pelt availability, as the Harp seal harvest will not be complete until this fall.

An increase in local pelts is welcomed by Simonsen, who supplements her supply with East Coast sealskin. She said would essentially take all the Nunavut-sourced seal product she could get.

“My biggest worry is they’re going to stop hunting seals,” said Simonsen.

For Simonsen, the international situation is a moot point when she’s never been able to get enough local sealskin, even before the EU ban.

“It’s always been trouble for me since I started in the early 2000s,” said Simonsen. “I cannot get enough local skins.”

Imrie confirmed Simonsen’s dilemma.

“Demand for exceeds supply,” said Imrie. “We try to divide up the skins as fairly as possible between businesses that are placing orders, (but) with current (supply) numbers it is unlikely that a single business will receive more than 150-200 skins though our program in a one-year period.”

Simonsen said she would take up to 1,000 Nunavut-sourced skins if she could.

Rannva Design employs between four and 18 workers to produce her designs, depending on the season. A single sealskin jacket with hood and fur trim can take up to 40 hours of labour to make.