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Morel madness
Mushroom crop expected to draw significant interest in the Deh Cho

Roxanna Thompson
Northern News Services
Published Thursday, May 15, 2014

DEH CHO
An unassuming looking mushroom with a preference for growing in boreal forests that have recently burned is expected to draw a lot of attention in the Deh Cho this summer.

NNSL photo/graphic

Craig Scott of Arctic Harvest holds dried morel mushrooms harvested in the NWT in 2011. There is a growing interest in the potential of morels this year in the Deh Cho. - NNSL file photo

Morel mushrooms have honeycomb-like tops made up of a network of ridges with pits in between them. They can appear grey, yellow or black in colour and are described as having a earthy and nutty flavour with a meaty texture. They are prized by gourmet cooks, especially in French cuisine, and can command substantial prices.The Department of Industry, Tourism and Investment is set to hold workshops in the Deh Cho region to assist residents and communities in learning how to tap into this potential market by harvesting morels.

"There's an opportunity here and why not at least explore it," said Mike Mageean, the department's regional superintendent.

The region has prime potential this year.

There is a noted correlation between wildfires occurring one year and morel mushrooms growing the next spring and summer.

There were 76 forest fires in the Deh Cho last year that covered 256,150.51 hectares.

A large area centred around Sambaa Deh Falls Territorial Park that burned is accessible from Highway 1.

"There is a lot of interest," said Mageean.

Chief Stan Sanguez of Jean Marie River First Nation asked if the department would help Jean Marie River community members learn about the mushrooms and harvesting them. The department has secured two consultants – Joachim Obst and Walter Brown – to deliver on-the-land workshops.

The workshops in different communities will be timed to the morel harvest, either in May or early June, so participants can get real experience in where to locate morels and how to harvest and correctly handle them, said Mageean. The workshops are designed to show the ordinary person the opportunities related to morels, he said.

The department is aware that some people or existing businesses may want to base a business around buying and selling morels. The department will address those cases individually.

Mageean was unable to provide specific prices that morels are sold for either fresh or dried.

"Prices in this commodity vary," he said, adding prices are based on the time of the year, the condition of the morels and who they are sold to.

James Christie of Fort Providence is already exploring the business opportunities these mushrooms offer. Christie has started Ever-Ready Dehcho Expediting and has been advertising for people who want to pick morels and be paid by the amount they pick. Christie said he started the business for the people who he will be employing.

"It was apparent right from the get-go that anyone who has on-the-land experience already had about 90 per cent of the qualifications," he wrote in an email.

Income opportunity

Mushroom picking is perfect for hunters and trappers who are highly skilled, but can't always find suitable jobs. Christie has already had 30 people express interest in picking, including some from Jean Marie River. To get started, Christie is getting professional help from a company that has assisted aboriginal groups in B.C. enter the industry.

The company will provide training and ensure the morels are handled correctly, he said. Christie plans to run a mobile camp from early June to mid July that will move between Fort Providence and Jean Marie River.

Morels are a significant opportunity for the region and the whole

NWT, he said.

"I believe harvesting mushrooms and other wild foods can do very much for our region. They will bring value to our forests, leading to better protections for them," he said.

Morel harvesting isn't without its perils. Areas that are expected to be productive can draw mushroom harvesters from other parts of Canada and even the United States. Christie said he's been in contact with big groups from outside of the NWT who are planning to come north this summer. He's concerned local harvesters could be intimidated by those groups.

Regulations lacking

The lack of regulations and management of the commercial harvest of wild mushrooms in the NWT is being addressed by Deh Cho MLA Michael Nadli.

Nadli moved a motion on March 11 in the legislative assembly asking the territorial government to implement interim measures that will regulate and manage this year's harvest, as well as begin drafting legislation to provide responsible management for the resource.

The motion, said Nadli, was in response to constituents like Christie who have an interest in harvesting wild mushrooms and becoming involved in the industry.

In the absence of regulations and management there is a concern that there could be altercations between mushroom harvesters and the traditional land owners, he said.

Until there is an updated forest management act that would regulate non-timber forest products like mushrooms, Nadli would like to see a system of protocols in place so First Nations would be consulted about the harvesting activities that are taking place on their traditional lands and so that local employment opportunities are maximized.

"I think this is something Northerners need to pay attention to," he said.

"It's money in our backyard that could be easily picked, dried and harvested and sold to international markets and people will buy them at a high price."

Because the harvest is quickly approaching, Nadli requested a comprehensive response to his motion be provided in 60 days instead of the usual 120.

Although that period passed, he hadn't received a response as of May 13.

Nadli is hoping for a constructive answer from the Department of Environment and Natural Resources. For him, this is a test to see if the legislative process will address the concerns and issues of constituents through the solutions that are suggested through the legislative assembly.

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