Paulatuk (Dec 06/04) - On a windy, bitterly cold November morning in Paulatuk, one would think the surrounding land was vast and barren with all signs of life frozen beneath the sheath of ice and snow.

Joe Illasiak knows the land around Paulatuk like the back of his hand. - Dorothy Westerman/NNSL photo

Joe Illasiak knows different.

Decades of exploring and earning his livelihood on the barrenlands have taught him much about the intricate ecology of the land he has lived on for more than 30 years.

"It's nice to get out on the land," Illasiak says of his way of life.

He credits the experience passed on from community elders for his wealth of knowledge about the land, sea and animals which claim the region as their home.

"Elders have taught me a lot about the land -- from knowing where you are, to how to read snowdrifts and see where the dominant winds are blowing from," Illasiak says. Throughout the year, Illasiak fishes char and beluga whale, tags seals, traps animals for fur and hunts the massive polar bear. His work as a big game outfitter means he is often in contact with American hunters looking for a trophy to bring back home with them.

"We travel by dog team about 90km to the east on a 10-day hunt," Illasiak says of the experience he provides to those unfamiliar with life on the land.

Illasiak is not unaware of the changes his region is undergoing, however.

"I see the change in the land. Hills are sliding due to melting permafrost. Some of the hiking trails can't be used anymore in summer," he notes.

He does not know what is next, but he continues his traditional way of life.

He used to carve, but now is more handy with the needle and thread he uses to ensure his winter clothing is in good repair.

But even with temperatures hovering at -43C, no complaints can be heard from Illasiak, who only smiles at weather that would send most people racing for warmth.

"Oh, it's not too bad," he says.