Fort Simpson (May 14/04) - Two travellers from Vancouver Island didn't get what they came for, but left Fort Simpson on Sunday with many complimentary things to say.

Peg Bradfield and her granddaughter, Tamara Dinter, visited Fort Simpson from Vancouver Island last week. They came to town in hopes of witnessing the ice break up on the Mackenzie River. The only ice they see on Vancouver Island is in their drinking glass, Peg joked. - Derek Neary/NNSL photo

Peg Bradfield and her granddaughter, Tamara Dinter, touched down in Fort Simpson on May 4 with a longing to observe the Mackenzie River ice break up. By the time they departed on Sunday they had seen the ice shift and the tripod topple, but the real action on the river had yet to occur.

"It's a gamble. I gambled that the ice would have gone out by this time," Peg said while seated at a booth in the Nahanni Inn coffee shop on Friday. "We've been waiting for the ice to co-operate and right now it's not really in the mood."

To time their trip, she and her granddaughter had been monitoring the status of the ice roads in the NWT via the Internet. They had also seen pictures and read about break up, heightening their desire to watch the massive chunks of ice crumble and flow.

Upon arriving in Fort Simpson, twice daily the duo faithfully checked on the "tripod" -- a teepee frame set on the ice and connected to a clock on a power pole to officially record the time of break up.

They also met many people, whom Peg described as delightful. They visited Albert Faille's cabin, took a plane ride over the broken ice of the Liard River and got a land-based tour of the area from resident Reg Bellefontaine.

"It's really beautiful up here," Tamara said. "Everyone's very generous here, willing to lend a helping hand."

Bellefontaine said he was glad to be of assistance.

"It's unique to see people come into town for a little trip like that," he said.

It was Tamara's first time in the NWT, but Peg's initial visit took place six years ago when she drove the Dempster Highway and made it to Tuktoyaktuk and Aklavik.

"I think the North is great," said Peg, who was wearing a shirt emblazoned with a crest reading, Yellowknife, Northern Frontier Country.

She returned to the NWT a few years ago to take a cruise on the passenger ship Norweta. While on the Mackenzie River she said she was intrigued by the flattened bushes along the riverside, caused by the overflowing ice the previous winter.

"I thought I'd love to come back to Fort Simpson and see the ice go," she said. "Even if we miss it, it was a wonderful trip. I'd certainly recommend it to anybody."