Richard Gleeson
Northern News Services

NNSL (Jun 02/99) - A thunderous prolonged belch issues from the next table.

The woman who roared it out declares to the turned heads the burp was the ultimate stamp of approval for breakfast this first morning of the season for the Wildcat Cafe.

Yellowknife's most famous eatery is celebrating the 20th year of its rebirth, and the two people running it this summer say the mood and food this year is traditional -- that's mining town traditional.

"The model here is pretty much anything goes," said co-manager Tim Tate. "Everything is so relaxed."

There is no room for pretension on the deck or in the Wildcat's log confines, with its bench and table seating. Perched on the side of Pilot's Monument hill, the restaurant is in the heart of Old Town, an area where just about anything goes.

"One person asked me, 'What's on your wine list,'" recalled co-manager Warren Chomiak, who was a waiter last year. "I said, 'Look around you -- it's red or white.'"

The relaxed atmosphere is reflected in the hours. Officially, closing time is 9 p.m. but Chomiak and Tate added they are "willing to stay open later." The Wildcat opens at 8:30 a.m. from Monday to Saturday and at 9 a.m. on Sunday.

For its 20th season, the Wildcat is staffed by a lineup of veterans headed up by perennial Wildcaters, Tracy Riley and kitchen "guru" Tamara Latimer. Tait said Riley made one of the deck tables from a komatik and some skids.

Also on board is John Alexander, who waited tables at the restaurant its first three seasons.

"It's 20 years ago, literally, this month," said Alexander. "It could be this day." Little has changed, he said, from those days. Now the restaurant takes credit cards and serves canned pop.

The Wildcat is a coveted gig for city waiters, said Tate, noting there was a long line up of candidates for jobs there this year. "It's fun," said Chomiak. "That's what it boils down to. It's the best way to spend the summer and make some money."

Owned by the Old Stope Association, a non-profit society, devoted to preserving the heritage of Old Town, profits from the operation are used to maintain the building.

Over the last 15 years, the association has added new kitchen equipment, the mission building (where ice cream and souvenirs are sold), a new sewage tank and a walk-in freezer.

The association has requested proposals from contractors to restore the foundation logs, fix the windows and re-roof the building.

Along with its usual slate of wild food, as well as vegetarian dishes, Tate said this year the Wildcat is hoping to incorporate some entertainment on the deck (apart from the customers). He invites local artists to give him a call.