Much lower in the water than a canoe, with an enclosed cockpit, or cockpits in the case of two- and three-person models, kayaks are far more seaworthy than other human-powered craft in rough water.

To the novice, one of the benefits of the kayak, the almost water-tight enclosed cockpit, is also a liability.

Though it will keep water out of the boat, it also keeps the paddler in, even when the bottom goes up. For all but the most expert of sea kayakers, unlike their distant whitewater cousins, the Eskimo roll is out of the question. Sea kayaks just aren't built for it.

The only solution available is swimming. Once in the drink, getting back in and under way is no small feat, particularly in frigid Arctic waters, where swimming is a short lived option.

That hasn't deterred many. The popularity of sea kayaking is growing, and growing fast.

"It's unbelievable the amount of people who are doing it these days," said Dave Reid of Pond Inlet's Toonoonik Sahoonik Outfitters. "I can't keep up with the demand."

Reid's eight kayaks, including two doubles, are booked for the summer. He rents the kayaks to southern tourists, from places like Montreal and Chicago, for trips that last between five days and three weeks.

As with all boating on big water, the first requirement of the successful arctic kayaker is respect for the power of the ocean or lake.

The shorelines, currents, waves and wind in some places make kayaking a high risk sport.

Paddlers at Pond Inlet have the protection of mountains and fiords. At the south end of Baffin Island there is little protection.

"It's not the sort of thing a beginner should come up to the arctic waters and play around with," said Matty McNair of Iqaluit's Northwinds Arctic Adventures.

McNair recalled a group paddling to nearby Qaummaarviit Historic Park, getting blown in and eventually having to be helicoptered back to land.

Three years ago, three locals were not so fortunate. After an initial capsize, and a rescue attempt, all lost their lives.

That tragedy is not the norm, but one for those plying arctic waters to bear in mind.

For the most part, however, the kayak serves as the ultimate vehicle for experiencing, close up and personal, the grandeur of the North.