SOMBA K'E/YELLOWKNIFE
Although Trudy Hause isn't a full-time photographer, she said that for her, being able to take photos is no different than giving candy to a child.

Fletcher Stevens has been spending a lot of time in the brew house lately, churning out his signature beers for eager Yellowknifers. - Walter Strong/NNSL photo

Peering beneath the lid of a slightly steaming steel tank, NWT Brewing co-owner Fletcher Stevens looks up and grins, "this is where the magic happens."

The Woodyard will not be open until 5 p.m., but Stevens' day starts well before happy hour. Two weeks ago, the company started brewing its signature line-up of craft beers and lately this means a 6 or 7 a.m. start to keep on top of burgeoning public demand. On Monday, Stevens is hoping to complete three batches - but at five hours apiece, it's quite the challenge.

"We're almost out of stock of our beer already. We tapped on New Year's Eve and everyone had pretty much drank us out," says Stevens, who co-owns the business with wife Miranda. "We're probably going to run out of our first supply some time at the end of this week."

The brewing process

To get from grain to growler, Stevens starts with a hodgepodge of grain, oats, wheat or corn - depending on the brew. This is crushed and mixed with hot water where enzymes break down the starches into simple sugars.

"You're creating a big pot of stew," he explains.

During this step, temperature is key as lower temperatures will create a drier product with higher ones resulting in a sweeter, more full-bodied flavour. After an hour, this process is halted by raising the temperature to 75 degrees Celsius and the new sugary liquid - now dubbed "wort" - is separated from the spent grain. As the wort drains from the mash tun, cold water is slowly poured on top to rinse the grain and extract as much sugar as possible.

The next step is boiling, and for a brewer this is the opportunity to be creative.

The wort is boiled for up to two hours, sterilizing the liquid. Here hops can be added to create a variety of flavours. Added near the beginning of the boiling process, they will create a more bitter product, while later additions create aroma or flavour notes. In the case of Stevens' witbier, he adds orange peel, crushed coriander and chamomile.

Next the solution is strained and immediately cooled before being stored in a fermenter - a large stainless steel vat where yeast is added to consume the sugars. Here, carbon dioxide and alcohol are expelled along with flavour compounds.

"As soon as you pitch the yeast, you have beer," says Stevens.

The last step is to transfer it to a conditioning or "bright" tank where it is cooled, carbonated and eventually poured into kegs for serving. One batch typically fills 13 kegs, Stevens says.

Drinking 'em dry

Of the company's five beers, Stevens has currently brewed four and expects to create a batch of the flagship Bug Repellent IPA this week. Seasonal offerings will gradually be introduced over time.

Though the Woodyard features a lengthy list of craft beers from across the country, the house brews have quickly taken over in popularity since their introduction.

"Some nights it's a 10 to one ratio of how many of our beers we sell verses the guest beers," says Stevens.

The Turbid Wit - a Belgian-style ale - was only meant to be a seasonal drink, but proved more popular than expected. It will replace Fernie Brewing Co.'s Ol Willy Wit ale previously on tap.

"It's probably going to end up being one of our mainstays," he said.

A new porter is also in the works to replace the Deschutes Brewery's Black Butte Porter after its popularity in Yellowknife depleted supplies in Alberta.

"It was selling so well up here we ended up using all the supply," he said. "It was one of our more popular beers so now I'm going to have to bring my porter out a little sooner."

A "red" beer - or amber ale - is also anticipated in time for the Long John Jamboree.

Stevens says all of the recipes came from a small selection he developed over time and the five current offerings all carry craft beer awards from competitions across the country.

Though a number of growlers have been sold, Stevens says the public likely won't be able to take home the brews for another month, as he is still trying to keep up with demand in the restaurant.

Going forward, he says they would like to have cans and distribute outside the territory but this will require an expansion or additional space outside the current property. A connection to the city water supply would also be necessary as the business currently has water trucked in and septic pumped out.

In the meantime, Stevens said they will be focusing on their presence in the community, appearing at festivals and beer gardens, while continuing to offer draft at the pub.

"The people of Yellowknife have been great with the support," he said, monitoring his latest batch of Ragged Ass Pine, "We were worried we were not going to live up to the expectations, but it does give you that thrill because it means so much more to people than we ever really thought."