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From taps to tapas

Amanda Vaughan
Northern News Services
Published Wednesday, January 16, 2008

YELLOWKNIFE - Urban. Sophisticated. Cosmopolitan.

These words aren't the first people associate with the little dot they drew on the far side of Great Slave Lake in Canadian geography class.

But as more of the nation's city folk look to Yellowknife for adventure, more luxury amenities will spring up to cater to their tastes, the most recent of which is the cozy tapas bar that now shares a building with the Kingpin bowling centre.

NNSL Photo/Graphic

Owner Luke Wood, on the left, and maitre d', Garth Robinson, on the right, raise their glasses in a toast to the new Thornton's Wine and Tapas Room. - Amanda Vaughan/NNSL photo

Thornton's Wine and Tapas Room is going live for its "soft opening" this Friday evening, a much- anticipated event, which owner Luke Wood has been preparing for over the last year.

"It took a while to get it all done," said Wood, who explained that the previous room was "completely gutted" for the redesign.

And what a face-lift it was. A new patron would never know that the modern-looking, warmly-painted room with an entire wall of polished wood wine racks and the glow of a central fireplace was once a regular old pub.

Wood has spent the last year "fine-tuning the menu," and testing out the vast array of wines they plan to offer in a manner not previously seen in town. Wood has worked with Garth Robinson, his maitre d' and also the man behind their selection of 200 wines, in researching and compiling a catalogue of wines that can appeal to all palates and, as importantly, pocket books.

"Anyone can create a list of really expensive wines, but there are some great inexpensive wines. It just takes a bit more homework," he said.

His vision for Thornton's is to create an inviting atmosphere that can accommodate those with well-developed tastes, and also those less familiar with wine culture.

"We want to get people into wine," he said.

In addition to being stocked with all the proper types of wine glass for each type of wine they carry, Wood and Robinson said they will also sell two ounce pours in smaller "sommelier's glasses" for patrons who desire a little taste of everything.

While they are ready for business this week, Wood also said they have big plans for the future, including increasing their selection to about 300 different types of wine.

While Wood intends the wine to be the star of the show, he said the supporting cast will also feature some talented players.

The menu is going to focus heavily on tapas-style accompaniment for the wine, another innovative first for Yellowknifers.

Tapas is a Spanish word meaning "top," and the concept originated as a small complimentary snack placed on top of a wine glass.

"It could very well have been to keep the flies out," said Robinson with a chuckle.

In a test run on Sunday, Wood said chef Chris Zouboules served up interesting morsels like the "duck wonton shooter," which is a duck breast wonton in a small cup of consomme that is tipped back all at once like a shooter.

In the style of tapas, customers typically order several different small dishes which are served quickly, or even at the same time as paired wines, rather than one large meal, according to Wood.

He plans on having a grand opening event, but said the staff will have enough on their hands with the soft opening. They haven't even got the phones in, and won't be taking reservations for the first couple of weeks.

Thornton's will be only open for dinner at first, but Wood said plans are in the works for a lunch menu with two-ounce wine pairings as well.