Dane Gibson
Northern News Services

NNSL (July 26/99) - Antoine and Gabor Sutas came to Canada's North from their home in Stratsbourg, France, to experience life.

Although the brothers see things very differently, they both thought that a 1,500-kilometre canoe trip from Fort Providence to Inuvik would help broaden their understanding of the world they live in.

"Most people from home don't know this reality. They think bears are waiting behind each tree -- they scare themselves with their own ignorance," Antoine said.

"The thing that shocks me is, in France, the people are completely disconnected from the land. Taking a trip like this reminds us that we, as a race, are not the kings of the planet -- we are merely inhabitants.

"If more people could do a trip like this, we would all be less arrogant," he added.

Camped on the shore of the Mackenzie River at the mouth of Jean Marie River, they kick the supper bones of a 10-pound pike into their campfire. Gabor, 33, is the older brother and, after patting his full belly, it becomes clear he's not taking the canoe adventure as seriously as his 31-year-old sibling.

"I've travelled a lot, but mostly in southern countries. When my brother first suggested taking this trip I said no. Most of the time when I travel, I'm lazy," Gabor said.

"Actually, that's the reason I eventually told him I'd do it. I wanted to change the rhythm of my life."

After paddling almost 150 kilometres in four of the about 50 days they'll be on the Mackenzie, Gabor is still optimistic he can subdue his lazy side and finish the journey.

"This paddling is hard. At each community, I have a self-induced memory loss to forget how hard it was. Then I enjoy myself," Gabor said.

"If we can finish this project it will be great. For me, it's about pleasure and I'm discovering there is pleasure to be gained from effort. Before, I ran from effort so I guess I'm discovering something about myself."

Antoine became truly interested in the North when he joined a European Arctic ecology group as a hobby. He was so enthralled by what he learned that two years ago, he flew to Cambridge Bay. On his return to France, he immediately began making plans to further explore the North.

"This time, I wanted to travel at nature's speed so I could see the evolution of everything, from the populations of the indigenous people, to the vegetation and wildlife," Antoine said.

"I wanted to observe everything and meet people, which is why we're stopping at each community."

Gabor coughs loudly when he hears the last remark.

"Hey, we're stopping at each community for rest. After four days of paddling, I'm wiped out," he said.

When asked to honestly tell what he feels as he looks ahead to Inuvik, Gabor smiles.

"This experience is 100 times more interesting than spending a year in a job. I have a wonderful feeling I'm using my time and living the moment," he says.

"I try and stay in the present and enjoy everything as much as possible."

Antoine sums up his feelings about the rest of the trip in one statement.

"I think it might be colder at the end, but I'm not afraid. We'll succeed," he says confidently.